Friday, September 28, 2012

2nd and 3rd gear

every journey has its process
the way things unfold before the journey
the necessity of thinking about the journey the
deep feeling of being comitted to a journey
the knowing that the journey is going to happen
the swirling in the  mind the attempt to be somewhat certain
that i have everything i need for the journey
the nagging awareness that maybe i have too much

one could think of these various modes
which indicate certain periods on the journey
one could refer to these as gears

on the way to compostela now i feel like
i am in 2nd gear i've left the driveway
and i'm getting ready to get going along a thoroughfare
but i'm not quite there yet

soon i will be on the move and i will make
some stops along the way
soon the speed with which i move will increase
and the distance will become manifest

my foot is on the clutch
i'm getting ready to shift gears.....

OK

here we go.....

Friday, September 21, 2012

what i learned in school today



today my studies included a long walk
i measured out approx. 5.3 miles
and i learned a few things along the way

after the initial inspiration
i loaded up my backpack with weight
i threw in some barbells
and some ankle weights
and some cast iron woodplanes
and my sleeping bag
i thought you know what i'm not going to weigh this
i'm just going to hit the road
so i lofted the thing on my back and immediately knew
a little surprise
i immediately knew that after 5 miles i would be tired
with this much weight
i wondered how much weight i was carrying
i thought: it feels like 50 maybe 60 lbs

well i walked about a mile to the interstate bridge
and i took the pack off and i felt almost like i was about to fly
my legs felt light and wobbly and i thought
geez
this pack is really heavy
so i had a little over a mile to go before i turned around
i hoofed it
the last part of the mile was all uphill and i hoofed it
my new KEEN boots felt great
the only concern i had was the knowledge that my feet aren't used
to being cooped up in boots
so my big toes particularly was aching a bit from rubbing against the
upper part of the shoe below the tongue
i realized my toenails were a little long
but i also felt i could go on and not have a problem

at the end of the second mile i lifted the pack off again
and again i had the sensation that i maybe could fly
i thought...man i hope i don't have to consider carrying a pack this heavy...
i took off my boots and my feet rejoiced
not that they were uncomfortable but
they were feeling the effects of new shoes new solid insoles
and considerable weight on the high end
my shoulders were sort of sore
and my hips and thighs were complaining ever so slightly but
noticeably just the same
so i set out to return and after one mile i stopped again
i took my pack off i took my shoes off
and i stretched and walked a bit
i had eaten an appple and an orange
so i felt strong and i knew i had enough energy
but my legs were starting to ache a bit

gee i wonder how much this thing weighs
i thought and thought

i thought
when i get home i will weigh myself right away
and then get a reading without the pack on

i was walking into the monastery when the bells for mass began to ring
but i rushed up to the communal shower room and stood on the scale
277 pounds it said
so i released myself from the pack
and i weighed in at 231
that's with boots and clothing

so a 46 lb pack
i said to myself
no way am i going to haul 46 pounds
my goal is to carry half that

as i neared the monastery i asked myself
could i walk further
and actually i felt a second wind coming on
and i thought you know
i could walk another 2 or 3 miles
but that would be about it

with half the weight i could've walked another 5 or 6 miles easily

so what did i learn

 i learned that it has been a long time since i've carried weight on my shoulders
and my lower back and innerthighs are making that known right now as i type

i learned that pacing and stopping and stretching help a lot

i learned that by cinching up my bootlaces i can add some strength to my feet
it's better than having them loose as i did when i began

i learned i do not want to carry 45 lbs
and thus it behooves me to strategize for lightness

i learned that certain areas of my feet might become susceptible to blisters
and that i could in fact know that as i walk and i could address this immediately
with tape

i also got a sense that with a few days effort even 45 lbs would become mangaeable
i felt that i would get stronger by the day if my feet would hold out

tomorrow i want to do a strengthening session with my full 45 lbs pack
i'm going to keep it heavy for a few days
hoping that when i finally pack for this pilgrimage
i will be delighted in the lightness of my burden

i also had a profound sense that the pilgrimage has already begun

reporting from central lake woeBgone










Friday, September 14, 2012

former pilgrim

On the pilgrim forum I came across the following verse Sir Walter Raleigh wrote in the 16th century regarding his Pilgrimage:

"GIVE me my scallop-shell of quiet,
My staff of faith to walk upon,
My scrip of joy, immortal diet,
My bottle of salvation,
My gown of glory, hope's true gauge;
And thus I'll take my pilgrimage....
"

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

blisters and pain

it would seem more than logical that
the primary concern in terms of comfort
and strength for a long journey
would quite naturally be the feet
especially if one is walking

the feet

in order to test the boots i have
i took them along with me to montana
on two occasions i was given to longish hikes
5 - 6 miles up and down small mountains

the boots i had worked great for this
they were strong in the ankle and have good soles
my feet did not suffer a bit

but yesterday i walked 8 miles with very little by way of rest
and my feet took a beating
at one point i was forced to take my boots off and walk in my socks
on the flat asphalt road
blisters of serious magnitude had accrued on heel(s)  and toe(s)

it became apparent that i had to do some strategizing

so with blisters and pain i determined to get some
lightweight hiking shoes with ankle support
and i did not hesitate
i took me to the local SHEELS and set about shopping
and trying things on
i arrived at a shoe/boot made by KEEN
a very lightweight boot
i judged a full 1/3  the weight of my CHACOS
the sole is very strong and the insole was removable
and i allowed the salesman to convince me that
some special hightech insoles would serve me well
he seemed so pleased with his sales acumen
i bought them
and i am pleased

this one act of necessary conspicuous consumption
will free me to consider other less pressing worries
like bedbugs
i know these boots are made for walkin

the weather i cannot control
the status of lodging is beyond my influence
but my shoes my feet
this is something i can do something about

and i have

did someone say something about a walk

jh

Thursday, September 6, 2012

pre- and post-camino travel arrangements

Hi jh,

I know you are are the road today and tomorrow.  Thought I'd post some travel possibilities here now, while I have the information in front of me.  We can discuss over the phone when you get back.

I'm thinking we'll want at least one day and 2 nights in Leon before we start walking.  Everyone on the pilgrim forum says it is a very nice city, worth spending some time in.  I've received a recommendation that we stay at the guest house at the Benedictine monastery:


In Leon you can get your Credential at the Albergue del Monasterio de las Benedictinas (Sta Maria de Carbaial) They have a pilgrim albergue AND a very pleasant guest house. Perhaps for your first night after traveling the guest house would be more comfortable for you. You need a reservation for the Monastery Guest House or Hospederia. Here is a link to their Web page in English. >> http://www.hospederiapax.com/ Both the Albergue and the Hospederia are next to each other on the same street which is listed on the web page. Be sure to visit the splendid cathedral in Leon which is near-by!
It seems like this would be a nice way to begin our journey.  I've sent them an email to check on availability for the nights of Oct. 1 & 2.  John suggested taking the train from Madrid to Leon the same day we arrive in Spain, but we are both open to spending a day in Madrid either at the beginning or end of the journey, if you want to.  If we do proceed on to Leon on Oct. 1, we could take the train leaving Madrid at 14:40, arriving Leon at 17:34, for 45 Euros.

John would like to spend a few days relaxing in Spain at the end of the trip.  I've received a recommendation for the Little Fox House, near Muxia, near the coast west of Santiago de Campostela:

The Little Fox House has a fire going in the lareira, soup's on, bread in the oven, big beds are warm and cosy, and the surroundings just beg for pilgrim meditation walks. Weather is cool but mostly sunny. ...pilgrims walking to Muxia, Finisterre or those finishing in Santiago are very welcome to come and "chill" for a few days. Compostela is necessary as the idea is for pilgrims to reflect on their Camino before returning home.
I am a writer and psychotherapist and four time pilgrim.This is my private home, not an albergue. Those who come here come as guests and all is strictly donativo. It is a haven of peace and quiet and your need for privacy will be respected. Sometimes I feel as though I am in the 14th century!
... Minumum stay three nights, maximum is five. There is a "job jar" as most have indicated they want to be put to work as part of the re entry process!!! The old church in front is in desperate need of some ruthless gardening. Carantona is 9klms off the Camino to Muxia near Ponte do Porto. It's a gorgeous walk along the Ria de Camarinas. I can pick you up in Muxia if you can't walk another step! Reservations are essential as there is room only for a maximum of four (or six VERY good friends!). All meals are included (mostly vegetarian) and tours of the history and mythology of the area can be arranged (dolmens, lighthouses, hermits and iron age castros ...) and hopefully so can some trout fishing!
This sounds perfect to me.  John is amenable to it.  What do you think?  (Did you catch the part about trout fishing?).  I have sent her an email inquiring about availability at the end of October.

Next on the agenda is to find a hotel in Madrid at least for the night of Nov. 1, plus however many extra nights we might want to spend there at the beginning or end.


If you have the opportunity I'd spend time in Madrid. I love the city. It has unique art galleries, a huge park with boating pond and has everything you would expect in a European capital. If you look at Booking.Com and search for hotels near the Puerta del Sol (the very centre of the city and of Spain) you will get a very good selection at all prices. There are also local hostals such as: http://www.hostaltriana.com/



I checked Booking.Com for hotels near Puerta del Sol.  There are 3 or 4 hotels with rooms US$60-90 each.  Each of these only has 1-4 rooms left.  Other hotels in that area are mostly >$120 per night.  I suppose we might also want to consider something near the train station.

I'm not sure how much will be open in Madrid on Nov. 1, since it is a holiday.

I've also been advised that we should book our train tickets from Santiago to Madrid now, since many people in Spain travel to their place of origin for All Saints Day.  So we should decide soon whether to return to Madrid on Nov. 1 or on Oct. 31 or sooner.  There seem to be only 2 trains per day from Santiago de Compostela to Madrid.  One is an overnight train taking 9.5 hours.  I would prefer the train that leaves at 16:05, arriving at 21:48, for 54 Euros.

Things seem to be taking shape ... are we really doing this?  ... let us know your thoughts on all this soon.

Sally

** Just got an email back from the Little Fox House.  She does have availability for us, and it sounds like she can be flexible with regard to our arrival date, as long as we keep her informed of our progress. 

Tuesday, September 4, 2012

bed bugs

Yikes!

One more thing to worry about on the camino...

http://caminosantiago2.blogspot.com/2011/06/dont-let-bedbugs-bite.html

and one more thing to add to my pack-- insect repellant

At the moment I am paranoid about bringing bed bugs home with me.  I don't think I can put my internal-frame pack in a washing machine or dryer, as recommended at the website.

And what do you do if you find bed bugs at the only albergue in town?  Sleep outside?

Another pilgrim mentioned something about XXL ziplock bags that you could put your whole pack inside at night.

Now I'm hoping for really cold weather so that this might not be a problem.

OK, I just came across this on the pilgrim website:
"If the backpack cannot be washed it needs to be sprayed with bed bug killer or taken to professional cleaner."

 And here was another reassuring comment:
"Discussions of bed bugs always brings out fear and disgust by those about to start their first Camino. It really is not a big threat. You probably will "hear" about "someone" along the way but never experience anything yourself.
The time of year is one of the main factors.
Don't let the fear of the critters spoil your enjoyment of preparing for your Camino. Take simple precautions "just in case" but don't worry. "

Monday, September 3, 2012

pilgrimage preparations

Less than a month to go before John, jh and I leave to walk the last 200 miles of the pilgrimage to Santiago de Campostella in Spain.  I still feel a bit uncertain about what to pack.  I found a pilgrim site with the following average weather maps for Spain for the month of October.  This should help me to choose what combination of clothing layers to bring.

In the maps below, the east-west trending blue line is the Camino Frances, which is the route we will be taking.  Our starting point, Leon, is located just above the Camino Frances label, where another route comes down from the north to join the Camino Frances.  Santiago de Campostella is the hub where many routes converge, about 200 miles to the west of Leon.  You can click on the maps to see an enlarged view.




It looks like average high temperatures for the month of October along our route are 17.5 -20 deg. C  (63.5-68 deg F).  This is quite a bit cooler than I had expected.  I had worried about heat, since southern California can still be quite hot in early October.  It looks like I should perhaps be more concerned about cold and rainfall.  Average low temperatures for October along our route are 2.5 to 7.5 deg. C (36.5 to 46.5 deg. F), and average rainfall for the month is 13 cm (about 5 inches).

From the pilgrim forum:
It rained on 7 of 31 days last October (in Santiago; 8 days of rain in Lugo near Sarria). The average daily temperature was between 48 and 76 with the highest being 87 and the lowest 39.  October is very pleasant. The crowds have diminished by then, but everything is still open.